Scooting Across The Mackinac Bridge!

Mackinac Bridge, a.k.a. "Mighty Mac"

Image taken from 50statesproject.wikispaces.com.

I'd only gone a few miles from The Gables in Cheboygan, Michigan when I looked down at my dash and noticed that my trunk light was on, meaning my trunk was open. This was a pretty big bummer, because I was pretty overheated having already spent half an hour at a Shell station, getting the tire pressure corrected and managing a problem with the helmet camera, and now I would have to unwire the camera and take off my pack and get all disconnected from the monitor just to close the trunk. Regardless, I had to pull over; but when I did -- the trunk would not close. Now, this trunk has always been temperamental and has required a good slam to get it to shut properly, but this time the latch just wouldn’t engage.

I once again called the Vespa dealer in Grand Rapids, looking for a dealer close to me, but this time they told me what I had expected to hear a couple days earlier when I was in Gaylord, Michigan: “There isn’t one in over 100 miles. You could go to Detroit.” Well, Detroit was not on my way to Sault Ste. Marie, so I sent up a tweet asking if anyone could point me toward someone who might be able to fix it between here and there.

In the meantime I talked to Michael, my husband, who chastised me for not taking the duct tape. I explained that the roll had been too big, but it gave me the idea that I might be able to get a piece of duct tape between where I was and the bridge (The Mackinac Bridge). I was having visions of the wind tossing my critical possessions into the lake as I scooted across.

Before too long I came to a small town, Indian River, where I stopped in an oil change place. Again I had to go through all the gyrations of getting unhitched from the helmet cam, and just as I finished I looked up to see a rather tall smiling man looking down and me. “I have to ask, why do you have a camera on your helmet?” he said. I answered, “Well, I’m delighted you did ask, because then I can tell you that I’m riding 3,400 miles on this scooter to raise awareness about Hidden Disabilities." I pause for the puzzled look on his face, then explain, “This could be any disability that you can’t tell by looking at a person, such as a person who's deaf, or autistic, or has MS.” He whipped out his wallet and said,”Let me give you five dollars.” I was taken aback! People have donated on the website but no one had ever just opened their wallet in front of me and handed me cash. “My name is Ara, and who are you Sir?” “I’m, Pat, Pat Allor.” He must have detected my surprise, because he said, “You are trying to raise money aren’t you?” “Well, yes... usually it's through the website... but this is great, THANK YOU!" I then explained that I was there hoping to find some duct tape. “Now what would you need a piece of duct tape for on a rig like that?”

I explained about the problem with the trunk so he took me inside to get some duct tape, but it turns out he didn’t work there, he was just stopping in there on his lunch break. He took a look at my broken latch and figured he might be able to fix it at his shop which was just down the road a couple miles. I figured I had nothing to lose so I headed over to Tri Rivers Collision and Pat and his colleague, Dave Cooksey, took it apart and messed with it until they got it working again. They aren’t quite sure why it stopped working and they don’t think their fix is permanent, but it is working for now. Pat helped me get all suited up again, as well as tightening the strap on my helmet, and I was off.

Now here is when things started getting weird. The nav had me traveling south, but I knew the bridge was north of me. I have the settings to take all back roads, so I thought it was possible I needed to go south for a bit to meet up with some other road that would take me north, but it was carrying on for just way too long. I stopped a couple different times and expanded the map and it was in fact taking me up to Sault Ste. Marie, so I tried to chill and just go with it, but again, I was heading farther and farther south and it was getting later and later in the day.

Finally, I was getting too exhausted to carry on much more, and if I had to I was just going to get on the real highway and get going north. So, I called my buddy Jim Picard and asked if he could figure out why the nav was taking me the way it was. It didn’t make any sense to him, and the bridge was now about fifty miles behind me. I asked him to give me an address at the base of the bridge and I would put that in the nav and start over. This managed to get me heading north and moving toward the bridge.

Mackinac Bridge, a.k.a. "The Big Mac"
Image taken from prklevans.wordpress.

Once the bridge was in sight, or the tips of the top of it, I pulled over and turned the camera on because I didn’t know what the traffic would be like once I got closer. Now for months everyone I asked told me no matter what I do, don’t drive on the grates on the bridge and I would be just fine. Well I ended up at a peculiar on-ramp, and I couldn’t figure out if it actually went onto the bridge or not, so I just jump on it and suddenly I'M ON THE BRIDGE!!!!

Mackinac Bridge (pronounced "MACK-in-aw")
Image taken from yoopersteez.com.

There I was, it was actually happening. I didn’t see the grate that everyone was talking about so I was kind of puzzled, but being on the bridge was glorious and beautiful and fun. I was rolling along in the left lane enjoying the view when suddenly just ahead, about forty feet in front of me, was the grating I'd been hearing so much about, and to the right -- was a truck going about 15 miles an hour. Fifteen miles an hour, especially in the wind, is not a good speed for me, so I had to pass him -- but I had never passed anyone before and I had to pass him before the grate, aaeeeiieieieieieie!!! I just made it.

So, I’m cruisin' along the beautiful bridge and it is like I am flying over this huge expanse of water. It was exhilerating. "Absolutely brilliant!" as Ewan and Charlie would say (Long Way Round). I screamed and hollered with delight the whole way over and then.... there was construction and they funneled me over to the grates!!!!!!

I shouted, “I’m glad I didn’t know in advance this was gonna happen to me. I’m just gonna have to pray that my Piaggio MP3 is gonna keep me safe.” It did in fact pull and lurch one way and then the other with no predictability, but I relaxed into it and I was okay. I just treated it like I treat the rough winds. I think I rode the grates for about a mile or so and then I was back on the pavement for another mile and then it was over.

Once on the other side, I attempted to put the final destination back in the nav but it gave me the same confusing error it had given me that morning, saying the route was too long to calculate. Well it turns out there are two Days Inns, both in Sault Ste. Marie, one in Michigan and one in CANADA! So the nav had been trying to take me on some crazy roundabout route to Canada earlier in the day - ack! Well... I won’t fall for that one again.

Tall Ships & True Tales

Day Two: Tall Ships & True Tales (Traverse City, MI)

I can’t stop for more than 30 seconds without someone sauntering over to ask me about my unusual scoot. What a blessing. I had never realized what a lure this three-wheeled ride would be — which then gives me an opportunity to tell people that I’m riding 3,500 miles to raise awareness for Hidden Disabilities.

"What is a Hidden Disability?" they all ask.

My response… Any disability that one might not recognize just by looking at the person. They might be deaf, autistic…

Often, the person interrupts me and starts listing other Hidden Disabilities, like MS… I can’t begin to tell you how many stories I’ve heard in just the last two days.


I'm spending the night at a unique Bed & Breakfast, which takes place on a Tall Ship on the water at Traverse City, Michigan. Tonight I heard from a crew member of the Tall Ship, Jeremiah Bailey. Jeremiah’s brother, who has MS, works on a Natural Gas Rig in Colorado. He’s only 25. Sometimes one side of his body goes numb or his hands don’t work. He will get worse over time.

I’m stymied sometimes by people’s stories. I have so many questions, but they all seem too personal to ask. I wonder if they have insurance, if the person has enough support within their family or community. I wonder what could change in their life that would really make a difference.

At this point, I just want the very first step: I would like to get people to stop and think for a moment. If someone isn’t behaving the way people expect them to — or want them to — then maybe something is going on with them.


I am honored to have these strangers share their stories with me. Together we will figure this thing out.

And on we go!

Up to Speed

As of today, I am 21 days out from departure on my Midwest Scooter Training Tour (hitting the road Friday, July 9th). I thought I’d take a moment now to revisit some of the basics about this project, just to get everyone up to speed: this summer’s trip will act as a training session for my big tour of France, which is next summer. This training tour covers 3,400 miles: 7 States, 26 towns/cities in 50 days. I’m staying mostly in lower cost hotels, with a couple of B&Bs thrown in, but there are about 10 days camping (yikes!) well as a few more adventurous stays like in an overnight on a submarine and another on a Tall Ship.

Now let’s address the bigger question: what is this project all about? Well, I have a Hidden Disability (which you can learn all about in gruesome detail, if you wish, on the new website which I’ll describe in a moment) and I’m doing this project to share my story in hopes of raising awareness about Hidden Disabilities, something I and millions of other Americans deal with every day (see posting with H-P article). Around my depart date there will be a super cool web-site which will include real-time tracking that will allow all of you to follow along with me on my journey, as well as my updates and videoblogs and photos and the works.

In the meantime, you can keep up with me on my Facebook Group: Off The Map: Europe, Twitter: offthemap_eu or meet-up with me through FourSquare.com (ara@offthemap.eu).

The Workouts. The Food. (2/26/10)

I need to get fit. I've fought fatigue since the ICU. My endurance has improved over time but fatigue hasn't gone away. If I exert myself one day (standing too long, walking too far, riding a scooter for twenty minutes, getting too cold) I may find myself in bed for several hours or a day or two to recover, depending on how bad the "offense." My hope is that if I gradually and mindfully work to increase my endurance, I might be able to extend my reach. Walking, the elliptical machine, and swimming are all I am allowed to do. Swimming can't really be done without an abdomen. Pandora.com set to Sean Paul is my friend on the elliptical.

I'm fortunate in that I have an old elliptical by our bathroom and it overlooks the marshland in front of our house. The first month was agonizing. Starting out with 5 minutes, then 7 minutes, for a couple of days, then working up to 12 minutes, with several day breaks in between. When I finally made it to 20 minutes, even at a slow pace, I was down for five days after. It is three months later and I'm able to work 20 minutes every other day for a few days before I break for a few days.

I so desperately want the steady pace required for results. At three months in, I feel like I should have it by now. But I'm doing the best I can and I am grateful that at least some progress. So I might get it yet.

And then there is the diet/nutrition/weight --- ugh. I have a reputation for eating small portions, so I figured if I just cut back a little more and recorded what I ate I would lose weight for certain. Not so. After two months I went to see a nutritionist and was put on the hideous counting calorie plan. To be honest, I couldn't do it if I didn't have help from Michael with the looking up, the figuring and the counting. After 10 days on this plan I've finally lost two pounds. I have another 28 to go. This isn't going to change the distorted shape of my body, but I will no longer be dragging around weight that isn't working for me.

Workout programs and new eating plans are supposed to have slow results, but unfortunately for me they are even slower. During the presidential race I had a button that said Obama = Sanity. Although it doesn't say this exactly it conjured up an idea for me about how Obama was playing his own steady game, doing what he knew was right and not being bandied about by all the chaos around him. I put this button on my elliptical as a reminder that is is my game. I've set the course and I set parameters and I'm the one that I decides how I'm going to go about this, but I need to do this from a level-headed place not a crazy-headed let's get this job done head. I know I need to do a slow and steady wins the race, just like Obama. This is not my "natural" or old style, but it is the only style that is going to get me to France or get me home safely.

Is it safe for me to ride the MP3? (2/16/10)

Mystery solved.

Michael and I just drove up to Holland, Michigan to see if we could resolve the disability challenges with the MP3 250. The "roll out" was what I tried first, because neither of us thought I was going to be able to do it. So, I climbed on, gripped the handlebars, and then slowly used the balls of my feet to push the bike forward. I did the little duck walk and moved it forward about six feet. Michael had taken it off the kickstand and, realizing how heavy it was, worried to see me moving it so fast. He cried, "Ara, wait!" But I was fine! I'm shocked too, but it was for real, I didn't strain and just paddled it forward. It is a little harder to move than my Vespa, but not that much.

The other issue was whether or not I would be able to put my feet on the ground while sitting on the bike. One salesperson had said that, with my height, it was doubtful I would be able to touch the ground at all. There I was with my heels on the ground. This means it is official: I have long legs. I should have known -- Michael, who is five-foot-eleven, and I have the same inseam.

Now we have to wait for the dealership to ship the scooter from Holland to Grand Rapids where they will prep it for a ride. After all this anticipation, I can't wait to actually be in motion on the MP3. It felt like a cruiser to sit on, with its gigantic padded seat and closer handlebars. Now I have to let go of the romance of trekking across France in my more-traditional Vespa, but... oh my, is the MP3 going to be comfortable. I suppose after riding for an entire day, I might be quite grateful.

The reason this change was considered in the first place had to do with the stability of this three-wheeled scooter over the traditional two-wheeled scooter. One review even reported that it was less susceptible to being blown about, because the road grip with the three-wheels is so strong. Now I won't be cruisin' on the highway, but I could tell why that reviewer said this even by sitting on it -- that scooter isn't going anywhere -- amazing what a third wheel can do. It also can take on gravel, railroad tracks and wet pavement with confidence. Don't worry, this hasn't given me the idea of stunt riding, but it could very well put me on a more stable ride.



Leno and a Piaggio representative explain features of scooter and Leno takes test drive.
My apologies for the poor video quality, but the audio has great information.

I'm in for a test drive. Would someone come over here and melt the snow and ice?

Random (2/4/10)

I've started reading Lonely Planet's "Cycling France: GPS Coordinates/119 Days/6000 km of Rides." This seemed like the closest I would come to the situation of being on my scooter . . . hopefully cluing me in to the roads I would be allowed or safe to use with respect to temperatures.

Here is some of what I have learned so far:

If one is planning to stay at a B&B in the country it is important to call ahead. If they don't have any reservations they might just pack up and take off, so I might find myself with no place to lay my weary head.

Emergency Numbers are all different in France.
National Emergency: 112
Ambulance (SAMU) ("There is usually somebody on staff who speaks English."): 15
Police: 17
Fire: 18

Even bicycles are not allowed to ride down a one way street the wrong way unless there is a bicycle path. It is illegal (I have a feeling that will count for me too).

Okay, I'm going to cut to the good part. It is recommended that in the country one be cautious about roaming dogs and PIGS. I swear I read that correctly. Sure, I get it about dogs, but PIGS? I have to watch out coming over the top of a hill, because there might be a few PIGS just STANDING THERE! Random pigs! I don't know what to do with this information! It is both scary and amusing, and I have told quite a few people about it. Then a couple days ago, my brother tells me, "Oh yeah, right out there by you that happened, a German Shepherd grabbed a small pig and darted into the street in front of a Harley guy and totaled the dude's bike."

Image courtesy of AP

Apparently, this is a local problem I was unaware of, not just a French one. I still don't what to make of Random Pigs, regardless of where they might appear.

Shocking First Step (2/3/10)

Today I called up to the Vespa dealership in Holland, Michigan where I bought my scooter. My hope was to meet with Stew who sold my scooter to me to see if they could support me in finding the unique gear I will need to make this journey. Turns out Stew was gone and hadn't been replaced. I had just spoken with him four days earlier. I was put on the phone with the general manager who reluctantly explained that a decision had come down from on high to close the Vespa department.

He explained that they could get a Vespa for someone who wanted one, they just wouldn't have a Vespa department. Suddenly, I realized this meant that their service was gone as well. When I asked about Aaron, the amazing scooter service person (who brought my scooter back to life after it was totalled) the manager said he was sad to say Aaron was gone as well. Now I don't know what the dynamics are of this decision at Fox Lincoln/Vespa. What I do know is that Aaron was extremely enthusiastic about his job. When I first met him a year ago he told me "I love fixing scooters. This is my passion. There is nothing I would rather do." It is so rare any more to find someone who feels so passionately about their work. I have felt heartbroken all day for Aaron. I don't know where he is or what will come next, but I pray Aaron finds his way into another scooter shop somewhere even if it means he has to pack up and hit the road to find the right job.

As for me, I was directed to Grand Rapids which is two hours away - the same distance as Chicago. I don't know my way around Grand Rapids but I certainly know my way around Chicago. I suspect I know who will win that toss. Grand Rapids is reported to have a great scooter club, so we will see.